Monday, January 9, 2012

VIETNAM-Cambodia (4): The Heat Is On In Saigon

VIETNAM-Cambodia (4): The Heat Is On In Saigon
I first learned about Saigon through the hugely popular musical which incidentally, we also performed back in third year high school. Miss Saigon was set in the 1970's and is primarily the love story of a young Vietnamese bar girl (Kim) and an American G.I. (Chris). With the Vietnam War as its backdrop, their story had many complications and eventually they both became victims of fate and circumstance. War stories have always fascinated me, and for this reason alone I’ve always wanted to set foot in Saigon.

Saigon used to be called Gia Định (no wonder my name kept appearing everywhere), and was renamed by the French during their occupation. Presently known as Ho Chi Minh City, what used to be Saigon is now a thriving and busy city with an incessant buzzing of motorcycles as its background music. It’s a city where you can find cheap goods, sumptuous culinary finds, and backpackers from all over the world. With all its international flights, Ho Chi Minh City can be seen as an entry point to the rest of Vietnam and other countries in mainland Asia. 


N I G H T  M A R K E T
Featuring: “Paper doll girl”

Our first look at Saigon was when we arrived from Manila, but from there we boarded the bus directly to Siem Reap and we only got to see snippets of it through the windows. The only time we really got to experience Saigon was during our first night back from Siem Reap. We checked in at the Hong Han Hotel, which is located in Saigon’s backpacker district. It’s in a street parallel to Pham Ngu Lao, where we were frantically searching for bus tickets to Cambodia and where most buses stop.
Our first taste of Vietnamese phở

From the hotel we took a taxi to the Benh Thanh market, mainly because we wanted to eat phở. Ph 2000 was already closed though, so we ended up eating at one of the food stalls in the night market. The phở was still good, and eating on the street made the experience far more authentic. 

The charming girl selling paper dolls
While we were having our dinner, a girl who had some goods to sell approached us. She was so charming and actually quite good in selling, so we ended up buying 5 paper dolls from her. We asked her if she went to school and she said yes, but it’s a Saturday and there’s no school during Saturdays. Of course by then we had no concept of time and we forgot that it was a weekend. 
Some stalls in the night market

After our late dinner we went to buy some souvenirs in the night market stalls, which were just about to close. We then headed back to the hotel because we had an early-morning bus ride to Mui Ne the following day.







C I T Y  T O U R

Walking around a city of motorcycles
After one whole day in Mui Ne, we arrived in Ho Chi Minh at around 6:30AM. We slept for a bit, ate breakfast, checked out, left our bags in the hotel, and decided to go on our Ho Chi Minh do-it-yourself city tour. We started by taking a taxi to Ben Thanh market, but we found it a little too chaotic so we decided to postpone Ben Thanh to later. 
The park in front of the Opera House

From here we walked in search of malls, partly because we wanted to check what was inside and also because it provided much-needed air-conditioning, a respite from the hot weather. We walked many blocks and went inside many malls, and in one stop we went inside the supermarket and bought foodstuff as pasalubong.

Saigon Opera House
With our map in hand, we realized we were so near some of the tourist attractions already, so we ended up passing by and taking pictures of the Saigon Opera House and the City Hall (People’s Committee Building). 

People's Committee Building
The architecture of these buildings were so evidently French-looking, and it was nice to see in a city that is predominantly oriental. We looked at our map again and saw that we were so near our target lunch place (Quan An Ngon), so we walked further. 

Notre Dame Cathedral
After lunch we walked again to see the Notre Dame Cathedral, another evidence of French colonialism. It was a very pretty cathedral made of red bricks, and it had two spires in front. This Gothic and Romanesque-style architecture is again a welcome sight in the city and a thumbprint left by the French. Adjacent to it was the Post Office, which is another famous city landmark.

Reunification Palace

From here we found ourselves in front of the Reunification Palace. However, by this time we were already so tired so we decided not to go in anymore. The War Remnants Museum was a few blocks away, so we decided to just continue walking.

Now, walking in Ho Chi Minh City is not as easy as it sounds. I’ve already mentioned that Ho Chi Minh is a place buzzing with the sound of motorcycles. This is not an exaggeration, because I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many moving motorcycles in one place, and not just in one street but EVERYWHERE. Crossing the streets of Ho Chi Minh City is definitely an adventure in itself. We’re probably more used to crazy drivers than other tourists though, so we braved the streets all the same.


W A R  R E M N A N T S  M U S E U M

War Remnants Museum
The last stop of our walking tour was the War Remnants Museum. I've already mentioned that what drew me to Ho Chi Minh City was Miss Saigon, which is essentially a love story set during a war. But this is a romanticized story, and it doesn’t really speak of the atrocities and the realities of the Vietnam War. 

Remnants of the War
Upon entering the gates of the museum, we saw fighter planes and helicopters on the grounds. These were the ones used during the war some thirty years ago. The museum itself is a simple building with galleries that featured other war remnants like banners, bullets, guns, grenade launchers, and the like. Aside from this, the galleries mostly contained pictures of the victims of war crimes, as well as the ones who had to suffer the long-term side effects of war.

A victim of Agent Orange
For instance, there was a gallery called “Agent Orange,” featuring the damaging effects of the chemical defoliant sprays (containing dioxin) used during the war. The effects were mostly seen on the children whose fathers or mothers were exposed to the said chemical. Most of the pictures were hard to swallow, and in fact some of them were downright horrific.

Nguyen Minh Phu's drawings
There was one picture of a girl though that really struck me. Nguyen Minh Phu was a victim of Agent Orange, and because she was born without hands she only used her feet to draw and write. In spite of this, her notebooks contained wonderful drawings and writings, which only proves the strength and determination of human beings.

The museum was largely against the Vietnam War and the war crimes attributed mostly to American soldiers. Some people could say it’s anti-American, but I saw the museum as an eye-opening and at times heart-wrenching gallery of what the Vietnamese had to go through during that war. The issue of whose fault it was (whether the communists or the Americans) didn't matter as much as the message that war benefits no one.  In the end, everybody loses.


B E N  T H A N H  M A R K E T
Ben Thanh Market
Physically tired from walking around the city and emotionally/mentally tired from the pictures in the museum, we decided to take a taxi to Ben Thanh market for our last souvenir shopping. The Ben Thanh market is one of the most famous and recognizable icons of Ho Chi Minh City. It doesn't look that big outside, but once you enter the market you can easily get lost.
What a fixed-price stall looks like 



When it comes to shopping in the Ben Thanh market, the stores in the middle part are usually overpriced. These are the stores that allow you to haggle for the lowest price you can manage. On the other hand, located in the outer edge of the market are the fixed-price stalls, which saves shoppers from the stress of haggling. We were able to purchase a few really cheap Kipling and North Face bags, “iPh: Made in Vietnam” shirts, and other usual souvenir items. By then, our poor feet couldn’t take it anymore so we went to the nearby Pho24 to have our last taste of authentic Vietnamese Ph.


P A C K I N G

Anh, our very warm host
We finished our early dinner and went back to the hotel, where we left our luggage. Packing all the things we bought into our bags was a challenge in itself. By this time we were also very sweaty and tired. It's a good thing our gracious host Anh kindly offered the use of the hotel’s shower on the first floor, since we were no longer checked in. The prospect of a nice shower after such a long day of walking around the city was too tempting to resist. We headed towards the airport after freshening up, very much ready for our flight back to Manila. 






L E A V I N G   S A I G O N

Our home in Saigon
By the time we we were safely seated inside the airport, it started raining cats and dogs. It was quite humid earlier and it was drizzling while we were eating lunch, but mostly our city tour was dry. The four days we spent in Vietnam and Cambodia were all bright and sunny as well. This was a blessing because prior to this trip, the weather forecast actually said it was going to be a rainy four days. 

We mostly slept on the flight, and by 5AM Manila time we were back home. The end of any trip is always hard, and it’s always tough to go back to reality. But traveling forces us to pause our real lives and immerse ourselves in the experience, learning and absorbing everything we can so that when we do go back to our individual realities, we do so as much better people. 

So thank you Lord for creating such a beautiful world that’s only waiting to be discovered. Thank you for perfectly orchestrating the elements of the universe (the seat sale, the weather, our schedules) to make this trip possible. Thank you also for guiding and protecting us throughout this crazy 5-day-2-country adventure. Thank you for the people we met along the way and the things we learned from them. And thank you for blessing me with friends who are as crazy, as game, and as adventurous as I am. Amen.


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